Climb scramble up easy fifth class to a shallow wide ledge. Others decided to work their way up the lasercut northeast ridge of bugaboo spire. The descent via the kain route went into the morning of july 28th. It runs up the left side of the eastern face of snowpatch spire and descends the western face. Bugaboos guided alpine rock climbing in the bugaboos. To get to the bugaboos travel 17 miles north of radium hotsprings or 48 miles south of golden on highway 95 depending on where your coming from to the really small town of brisco.
Rock climbing in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos mountain project. During my many trips across the bugaboosnowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain routei always looked at the black north face of snowpatch spire, and the striking crack that it held. Three new friends we met in camp heading for the superdirect on snowpatch spire. Climbscramble up easy fifth class to a shallow wide ledge. Stay left of the stacked left facing flakes, climbing the face on small face cracks, through small roofs gaining a sling belay. But no regrets, lions way was fantastic with a 2 star rating from the guide book, we were not disappointed. They deserve a place high on the priority list of anyone with an attraction to wilderness setting and a love of the classic alpine environment. Description the impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboos. Snowpatch spire seen from p2 of the ne ridge of bugaboo spire. There is a map in the photo gallery for krausmccarthy approach beta. The kain route on bugaboo spire has 5 good pitches of climbing, the rest is scrambling and boot kicking in 40 degree snow and ice on the way to bugaboo snowpatch col.
First climbed in 1916 by conrad kain, it has been a treasured objective ever since. Divine intervention topo we climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of fun meatandpotatoes crack climbing. Getting a closer look at the kruse maccarthy route on snowpatch spire. Wed been digging deep to commit to an adventure over to the megaclassic beckeychouinard on the backside of the bugs after waiting out rainstorms. Rapping off the tower at dusk, he was back at the campground by 8 p. Stanhope, segal free bugaboos tom egan memorial route at 5. The bugaboos of british columbia are an amazing group of huge granite spires towering above a sea of glaciers. Looking at our descent route off bugaboo spire, the south ridge and the summit traverse sun sets on a climbing day. The first reconnaissance was made in 1916 by conrad kain, who commented later that the spire was impossible to climb. For our next climb we chose the snowpatch route on snowpatch spire iv 5. Bonom and i set off to climb the kraussmccarthy route on snowpatch spire the morning after we arrived. Snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group.
Climbing with his longtime partner on the project, matt segal from the u. A closer look at the striking east face of pigeon spire. This rock climb is one of the most soughtafter routes in. Aug 03, 2017 ant and michael climb the west ridge pigeon spire and north east ridge of bugaboo spire. Bugaboo spire pigeon spire snowpatch spire eastpost spire. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world famous. During my many trips across the bugaboosnowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain. Unlike pigeon and bugaboo spire which are typically guided by one or two routes only, snowpatch spire has no easy way up but offers several different routes in the 5. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent. A long and challenging climb to the top of snowpatch spire, which sits immediately above the hut and campground. Free climbers may challenge with the east face of snowpatch spire or howser massif. Our goal was to climb the northeast ridge of bugaboo spire, and perhaps the west ridge of pigeon or the southeast shoulder of snowpatch. The mountain is located at the southwest corner of the vowell glacier, within the bugaboo mountain range in the purcell mountains, a subrange of british columbias columbia mountains, the highest of the three spires is the north tower at 3,412 m 11,194 ft.
Snowpatch spire and eastpost rest day snowpatch route 5. Snowpatch was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. Yamnuskas bugaboos climbing guides have extensive knowledge of this area and its climbing routes. Most of the routes on the bugaboo spire are accessed via the crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the kain hut and applebee campground.
The bugaboos or the bugs bugaboo provincial park is regarded as canadas best destination for alpine rock climbing. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing school. Climb bugaboo spire, ne ridge, bugaboo spire trailhead. Pigeon spire, south howser tower, bugaboo spire, and snowpatch spire all conjure up some of the great moments in the history of north american alpine. If you want to maximize the time spend on rock relative to your approach time, there are much better places for alpine climbing in western canada than the bugaboos.
Overview snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the group. We were headed up to the bugaboos for a week and a half. Snowpatch spire, east face, new routes canada, purcell mountains, bugaboos over the last decade or so, the 500m east face of snowpatch spire has been transformed into one of the finest alpine free climbing walls in north america. For a a real day, do the whole route after it meets up with the ne ridge of bugaboo spire, and then carry over and come down the kain route. The main spires are bugaboo, pigeon, the howsers, snowpatch and crescent. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing. Bugaboo spire, and the rest of the bugaboo group, are legendary for steep, clean, solid granite, high above easy glacier approaches. For the third consecutive summer alpine season, pro climbers matt segal and canadian will stanhope ventured to the rugged, granite spire paradise of the bugaboos to try and free an old aid line, the tom egan memorial route on the east face of snowpatch spire. Will stanhope and matt segal free the tom egan memorial route on the east face of snowpatch spire, bugaboos, british columbianow the hardest alpine climb in north america. In addition to bugaboo spire, pigeon spire and snowpatch spire, there are many enjoyable adventure mountain climbing routes on other nearby granite spires. Applebee camp is located in an amazing picturesque alpine setting with bugaboo spire and snowpatch spire towering above.
Snowpatch spire is on the left, and bugaboo spire is on the right. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask anyone for directions to snowpatch. We would climb its west ridge right skyline later in the trip. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the. Moderate climbing past old pitons on quality rock put us immediately behind another party. Bugaboos climbing guides professional guided ascents with. There is a fair bit of ridge climbing required to get the summit after topping out surfs up.
The range consists of about half dozen of granite spires with summits as high as 10,000 feet. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent canada, british columbia, purcell mountains, bugaboos after more than 20 seasons in the bugaboos, i wasnt quite sure how much energy i had to devote to my beloved backyard spires. Views of and from the mountain in any direction are gutwrenchingly beautiful. Stanhope redpoints bugaboos hardest free climb climbing. For over 100 years, climbers have been pushing climbing standards in the bugaboos and thousands of climbers visit every year. Im breaking it up into a few reports for the individual climbs.
The drinking water source is a small glacial lake above camp and is actually piped down and fetched from a spigot. What used to be a face known primarily as an aid climbing venue, is now covered in free climbing lines, although mostly difficult ones, usually reqiuring at least a couple pitches of 5. Aug 01, 2016 bugaboos south howser tower, bugaboo spire, snowpatch spire trip report with pictures steph fabian buhl makes solo winter ascent of 5. Bugaboos climbing guides professional guided ascents. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the kain hut. The standard approach is via bugaboo snowpatch col. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask.
Bugaboo spire as seen from the summit of snowpatch. Over the last decade or so, the 500meter high east face of snowpatch spire has been transforming into one of the finest alpine rock faces in north america. When you round the final corner on the long and winding logging road and see the full glory of the towering, dark granite spires rising directly out of tumbling glaciers, you will be in awe. The quality of the granite, the wilderness setting, the sharpness of the peaks, and the beauty of the surrounding glaciers all combine to put the bugs on every climbers hit list. Nov 01, 2012 from the summit of snowpatch spire, the bugaboos, british columbia, canada. Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. The best and most accesible alpine granite climbing area in canada. Rocky spires launch off from almost every direction, and if you squint, you might see climbers right from camp. It is great climbing but it does have more of a cragging feel then the main spires in the bugaboos. From the kain hut head north toward the bugaboosnowpatch col and turn off before the col as if heading to the crescent spire. Ascents of bugaboo spire pidgeon spire snowpatch spire the howser towers. Tents are perched on about three tiers of rock ledges below crescent glacier.
Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world. On my first trip to the bugaboos, i was 21 and working as a guide. Bugaboos south howser tower, bugaboo spire, snowpatch spire trip report with pictures steph fabian buhl makes solo winter ascent of 5. If a summer like 2009 happens again, then both climbing and rappelling the pigeon snowpatch rappels might be a new way to approach the west face routes. Welcome to bugaboo rock guides, an alpine rock climbing and mountaineering guiding service specializing in bugaboo adventures. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent aac. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature. The objective of this guided mountaineering program is simple. There are two classic british columbia climbing routes. From the top of the spire, numerous rappels are made down the backside in order to reach the glacier and the way back to camp. This mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed.
Morning sun on snowpatch spire and the bugaboo snowpatch col. It is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, across the crescent glacier. Alpine climbing, trad climbing and aid climbing 8 20. Dont miss out on the west ridge of pigeon spire iv 5. During my many trips across the bugaboo snowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spire s west ridge, bugaboo spire s kain routei always looked at the black north face of snowpatch spire, and the striking crack that it held. The bugaboos have several internationally known rock climbing routes. Oct 24, 2016 the bugaboos are a worldclass alpine playground with striking granite spires that contain some of the most beautiful vertical cracks on earth for rock climbing. It may have been the finest display of alpine skullduggery ive ever witnessed, what happened at the base of pigeon spire in the bugaboos that day. The bugaboo provincial park is located in the purcell range of british columbia, off of highway 95. As long as you pay decent attention to the topo, you can stay on route. The bugaboos are, for many, the holy grail of alpine rock climbing in north america. Mar 27, 2020 bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboos. Five things to know about the bugaboos gripped magazine.
Book a guided ascent with the professionals at cloud nine guides. Dec 18, 2015 august 17, 2015 canadian will stanhope has redpointed the tom egan memorial route on the east face of snowpatch spire. Snowpatch spire, east face, new routes aac publications. On july 27, we summited bugaboo spire via the ne ridge.
This climb has about 20 pitches of climbing and the rock quality is excellent throughout. Finally its first ascent was done in the summer of 1940 by jack arnold and raffi bedayn. For years there were several attempts to climb the spire. It was first climbed in 1940 and was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. From the summit of snowpatch spire, the bugaboos, british columbia, canada. Bugaboo provincial park is located in the southern british. Climb in one of the worlds great alpine rock climbing areas. Snowpatch spires with our route marked as seen from pigeon spire. The mountain range is located in the core of the purcell mountains, on the border between british columbia and alberta. Pigeon spire, south howser tower, bugaboo spire, and snowpatch spire all conjure up some of the great moments in the history of north american alpine climbing. Tom egan wall, snowpatch spire, bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Bugaboos 2007 beckeychouinard, nw ridge hounds tooth.
The steep walls and ridges of bugaboo, snowpatch and pidgeon spires as well as the howser towers are what hold the attention of most of our guests. Bugaboos 2016 beckeychouinard, ne ridge bugaboo spire. The towering granite spires of the bugaboos in the purcell range of interior bc are legendary for classic bigwall climbs in a remote and stunning location. Tom egan wall, snowpatch spire, bugaboos supertopo rock. The bugaboos are a british columbia provincial park in canadas purcell mountains. It is just nonintuitive that you downclimb about 1015 ft, traverse over about 10 ft, then climb back up above the belay before placing any gear. Html guide warning guide view may take some time to load for areas with large numbers of routes instant pdf generic precreated pdf for bugaboos the file is 0. The approach involved a bit of glacier travel with some steep scree and loose dirt slopes to get up to the notch between snowpatch and son of snowpatch. We also wanted to take a peek at the beckeychouinard on south. In all, the bugaboos linkup totaled approximately 50 pitches. It stands just to the west of applebee campground and is host to over 50 routes from 5.
Its right in front of you when you reach the hut, the distinctive snowfield that gives the mountain its name front and center. It is the moderate classic in the range, and was everything we hoped for. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire, snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. Getting closer to the start of the climb, looks classically steep. With its first ascent in 1940, snowpatch spire mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed.
Climb the bugaboos with our acmg ifmga certified guides. We climbed the bugaboo spire, pigeon spire, snowpatch spire, eastpost spire, and crescent spire in bugaboo provincial park. This is also a great area for a backpacking trip if you looking for a challenging trip with spectacular alpine scenery. Jan 14, 2019 jen climbing past the snowpatch on snowpatch spire. Found on the south end of the west face, surfs up is accessed via the snowpatch bugaboo col. Soon after my first trip to the bugaboos in 2006 click for trip report and photos, i began to make plans to return to this amazing climbing meca. Bugaboo spire is one of canadas great peaks and our certified bugaboos rock climbing guide staff this area very well.
1321 447 854 280 1273 1528 739 1460 1007 1300 1360 1250 377 388 981 1414 404 1146 1367 1106 900 812 1506 809 922 514 3 705 981 1485 1132 785 587 51 1092 775 804